Jump ahead to 2009. There's a new head baker, albeit a familiar face, in the kitchen. He's Patrick Deiss, 34, who helped Jonathan Krinn open 2941 as a chef but was sidelined to consulting duties for more than four years when he received a diagnosis of Meniere's disease. The disorder of the inner ear causes vertigo; Deiss says he's now feeling healthy and strong.

A veteran of the late Gerard's Place and Asia Nora, Deiss (pronounced dice) was recruited to take over the baking program by the current executive chef at 2941, Bertrand Chemel, who requested "less-rustic" breads to accompany his 3 1/2 -star cooking. Part of Deiss's training included a month at the esteemed San Francisco Baking Institute (hence a convincing sourdough, available plain or with whole wheat).

Like his predecessor, Deiss bakes bread twice daily and offers half a dozen or so flavors. But this time around, the variety comes from several different doughs, and the selections run to such seductions as an elegant baguette laced with rosemary and five kinds of olives, plus a sprinkle of Sicilian sea salt on its crackling crust. Deiss also has begun to sell his breads for $4.50 a loaf. Orders can be placed by calling 703-270-1690.

Good news for regulars: 2941 still bids guests farewell with a loaf of something luscious at meal's end.

-- Tom Sietsema