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Zagat

Zagat Buzz Piece

WASHINGTON D.C. EDITION
Feb 13, 2008

Dishing On New Top Toques

It's the changing of the guard at three popular restaurants: 2941, 701 and Taberna del Alabardero. Their new executive chefs have dished to the Buzz about the changes they'll make now that they're wearing the top toque.

Bertrand Chemel, who hails from NYC's Café Boulud, says he's adding a "French twist" to 2941's New American menu. His Gallic influence appears in the new braised beef royale with fresh black truffle, poached foie gras and winter root vegetables. He says he¹s enjoying his Falls Church customers because they "are very food conscious and like to try new things." Their curiosity extends to ordering the tasting menu more often than Café Boulud diners did, he adds, which suits him since that's where he can experiment with dishes like a guinea hen presentation featuring a confit of the leg, shredded and wrapped in a cabbage leaf, accompanying he roasted breast meat.

Another NYC transplant has taken command of 701's kitchen: Bobby Varua, a veteran of China Grill. He says he goes for "great bold flavors" and "aesthetically appealing plates" with a "whimsical point." ­ for example, an appetizer of crab croquettes served with avocado ice cream and a lime chip meant to resemble an icicle.

Meanwhile, Dani Arana was recently promoted to executive chef at Taberna del Alabardero. "I respect the traditional Spanish flavors, but I want to present them in a young and modern way," Arana says. A native of Andalusia, he plans to introduce homestyle dishes like pucheros (soupy stews) with potatoes, cuttlefish, monkfish and legumes to the restaurant's classical cuisine.

- Olga Boikess

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